El Patroncito Mexican Cuisine is in the Neighborhood
A gem of a Mexican Restaurant at 421 Venice (between Hope and Flower) was where I visited with the Chef/Owner Rodrigo Hernandez and learned his tale of a classic immigrant success story.
It starts with Rodrigo, 18, recently arrived in LA from Mexico with no family, no money (none), and absolutely no idea what to do. His journey started with a dishwashing job at a West LA Mexican Restaurant and a “Can Do” attitude. He soon graduated to a brief stint in the kitchen (cutting carrots), to busing tables, to waiting tables, then to manager of the bar. Jobs came and went with the fortunes of the operations he worked for but always he moved upward and onward. He spent several years working out of his home kitchen delivering meals to construction workers – always near financial oblivion. Along the way his mother in Mexico provided the recipes and cooking skills for authentic decades old family dishes. Things began to improve.
Finally, Rodrigo saw his dream opportunity – a tiny hole-in-the wall Salvadorian joint on Venice and Flower. The older lady who owned the place had enough. He somehow begged, borrowed the few thousand dollars it took to buy the place, opened El Patroncito, and started pursuing his dream. One problem - the old gal was operating without permits! The City soon informed him he needed permits (what the heck are permits?) costing thousands of dollars and months to accomplish. He convinced the inspector to let him remain open while he scratched together the fees for licensing. Late in 2016, he was in business with the blessing of the City of LA.
Then came the COVID shutdown. He still doesn’t know how he survived. Each week he remained open for takeout as he watched others close. He admitted that without his friends working only for tips during several very tight periods, he might not have made it.
He is now on track, and there is a bright future for El Patroncito. Rodrigo recently knocked out a wall of his restaurant and found a large, unused space that allowed him to triple the size of his dining room. He’s growing his clientele and following, has developed a fabulous breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu that I rate with the best in town, and a bonus – next to the 4.5-star Yelp rating there is one ($) sign - the best value available.
If you love great Mexican food, this is the place. Rodrigo and staff will make you smile with their personal attention and enthusiasm. The sauces are delightful (“not too hot”), and portions are generous. Try the Chilaquiles Verdes and Chilaquiles Rojas – you can’t get any better anywhere else in town! El Patroncito is open from 10:00 to 6:00 pm daily for sit-down dining. Telephone orders and takeout are available at 213-745-9500. Enjoy!
By John Nilsson