Stellar Dining Experience, First Taste at Culturas Restaurant
Tuna wonton taco with acevichado sauce, avocado mousse, togarashi spice. Fried calamari with sweet chili sauce, smoked tartar, scallions. Cauliflower steak with miso, garlic chips, chimichurri. Chicken Causa with olives, avacaho, huancaina, chicken salad, charred cherry tomatoes. And those were just four of the 10 appetizers served at the tasting of 26 dishes I was invited to attend for the soon-to-open Culturas Latin cuisine restaurant at the corner of Hope and 11th.
All items on the menu were served and stellar is the word that describes every dish presented. Every bite was full-flavored with spice combinations and sauces that my taste buds were experiencing for the first time. The meat and seafood were of exceptional quality. Lomo saltado – a beef tenderloin dish – was truly a melt-in-your-mouth piece of meat. The same was true of the carne asada made with an adobo rib eye. I experienced Peruvian peppers -- aji amarillo pepper and the rocoto pepper that is native to the Andes Mountains of Peru. The raw seafood bar was fresh, tender, and flavorful.
Josue Peralta is the owner. Although he is not yet thirty, he has spent 11 years in the industry. He is a hands-on person. At the tasting, he was behind the counter tidying up and cleaning and helping the staff, while checking with the attendees on their reviews of each dish served. He told me that the “human factor” is most important in the restaurant business – the staff working together to create a memorable dining experience, staff engaging with diners and sharing the love of Latin cuisine. Part of that human experience is the four generations of family involved in the making of Culturas.
The Culturas head chef is Cesar Taboada who has a two-star Michelin restaurant in NYC – Artesano which is also Peruvian. The description of Artesano also describes Culturas - “Peruvian gastronomy holds something that other cuisines lack, in that its influence and inclusiveness has opened the door for the marriages of many cultures and thus ingrained themselves into the Peruvian gastronomic experience.” Taboada pays attention to quality, flavors, and appearance. Every dish’s presentation was artful and inviting to the eye but never overdone.
When asked to choose my favorites from the tasting, I was stumped to name a few to receive the title of best because “best” described everything I tasted. But when pressed, I chose: (1) shishito peppers with bonito flakes, ponzu, and sesame seeds which featured dried tuna with vinegar that made the tuna move – yes, move! I have the video to prove it! (2) the Peruvian dish – Tallarin Verde Chicken Milanese, and (3) Chicamorado, a purple corn drink, to finish the meal. Oh, let me add (4) crispy Brussel sprouts with bacon and balsamic reduction.
Keep an eye on the corner of Hope and 11th. When Culturas opens, quickly make a reservation because this restaurant will be a popular hot spot.
By Debra Shrout